Adapting a basic sleeve block to fit a bodice
November 30, 2009 chloep
We have already created a bodice using the moulage technique, so we now have to fit a sleeve into it from a basic sleeve block. Therefore we have had to learn how to adapt it to fit in an already constructed bodice. We traced the sleeve block onto pattern paper and then measured around the sleeve head, we then got our bodice pattern and measured around the back and front pieces armhole and added the two together. We then took the armhole measurement away from the sleeve head measurement. The difference between mine was 7.2 cm meaning that the sleeve was 7.2 cm too big to fit into the armhole – if it had been a minus number it would have meant the sleeve was too small for the armhole. Therefore we had to adapt the sleeve, we did this by cutting down the armhole in stripes and just leaving it attached at the wrist opening – I made three cuts (down the centre point and then down half each of these), it is important to make these equal so that the armhole is adapted equally from each side so that it is still accurate. Then as the sleeve was too big for the armhole I overlapped the pieces of armhole by equal measurement (2.4cm in my case) to take the total away. If the sleeve had been too small for the armhole I would have bought each stripe out by an equal measurement so there was a gap between them. This is then secured by sellotape. You then get another piece of pattern paper and re-trace the adapted sleeve off. As the sleeve head is not consistent you have to draw the head by hand and round it off using your pattern master. You then have to check that the armhole is the right measurement and adapt it accordingly if not. When correct sut the pattern out and then cut the sleeve in calico and fit into armhole of bodice.
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